THIS IS A LONG OVERDUE POST ABOUT MY TRIP TO DUNEDIN, THE BIRTHPLACE OF THE SIX60 BAND
Dunedin, or Ōtepoti, the first city to own its own city council, also lays claims to be the first city in New Zealand. Safe to say, it is one of New Zealand’s first cities. That’s a lot of ‘firsts’!!
The city is credited for many of New Zealand’s firsts – the country’s first University (University of Otago), first medical and dental schools, first daily newspaper, and first public art gallery. Makes sense now!! Dunedin is the second-largest city on the South Island of New Zealand.
Dunedin was built on the wealth from the gold rush. It has many historical architectures spanning from Edwardian and Victorian to gothic church structures and picturesque gardens. The best and highest collections of history from my NZ experience so far. The quirky city is renowned for its wildlife; it is home to the world’s only mainland Albatross breeding colony, Royal Albatross Centre.
The city is one of those hidden gems we often talk about in NZ. It is small and easily overlooked but packed with fascinating places and must-dos for those who choose to give it a chance. It is set on what was once a volcanic crater and is surrounded by a beautiful harbour and some parts of the Pacific Ocean.
All photos in this post were taken by myself and my friend.
You may wonder, why I am writing about Dunedin out of the blues. Why am I writing about Dunedin?
In 2020, after I defended my doctoral thesis, I really wanted to go on a holiday. Crippled with the thoughts of escaping Auckland, I booked a flight without putting much thought into it. At the time, Esther lived in Dunedin so I called her up and she offered to host me.
THE FLIGHT
The flight time to Dunedin is ten minutes shy of two hours without stopovers. I had an afternoon flight with Jetstar Airbus A320, so the craft was small. It reminded me of Aero aircraft that flies from Uyo to Lagos.
Fun fact: Jetstar’s brand colour is same as Aero, Orange. Their food is also not free, just like Aero.
Back to the trip
The flight was going smoothly, then a few minutes to landing, we experienced violent turbulence. It was so rough that the plane literally shook.
The only other time I experienced such rough air currents during a flight was on one of my trips from Lagos to Uyo. Midway through the journey, the captain announced that there was a heavy downpour in Uyo, so peradventure they can’t land the plane in Uyo, we’ll have to redirect to Calabar abi was in Port-Harcourt?
Boy, was it turbulent!! You could hear the cabin baggage shaking in the overhead lockers, just like the Dunedin one. Kabashing wasn’t small sha oo. And to think it was a cheap flight, Aero had a promo where flight fares were similar to or even cheaper than bus fare to the same destination. For that reason, most people on the flight were first time fliers.
Me wey be pro was maintaining beauri!! No shaking! Low-key kabashing too oo.
In the case of my Dunedin trip, it had been a long time since I last travelled coupled with covid-19. This would be my first trip since the lockdown so, I had forgotten what being on a flight felt like. I had forgotten what turbulence felt like. The bad turbulence scared the fat out of me. When I surveyed the craft, everyone seemed to be just fine with it. UNBOTHERED!!!
No be me go come carry last na so, I maintained. Closed my eyes and said a prayer. I usually pray before and after every journey, especially air trips.
We finally arrived, and I couldn’t wait to narrate my predicament to Esther. I got into the terminal, and you wouldn’t believe what happened next. It started to rain heavily. It felt like the weather had it in for me that day. Ah, toor!! Fortunately, Esther had arrived early so, I ran to meet her.
The plan was that her friend would drop her off at the airport, and we’d go with the rental car I had hired. Since it was raining, the friend had to wait for us to finish getting the car so we could transfer our belongings from his car to our rental. This would be the first time I’d be meeting him, Chima! Love his energy.
My journey couldn’t stop being interesting.
On getting to the rental kiosk, I was told I could not get the car because my name wasn’t embedded on my debit card. PS to those planning to rent a car in NZ, particularly from Budget Rentals.
Know this: It is common in New Zealand to own a debit and EFTPOS card without your name on it. The only name will be “bank name’s cardholder’ e.g. ANZ cardholder. I was almost getting frustrated when Chima came to the rescue, again! We had to re-do the paperwork in his name since it was his card that was used. Phew!!!
All set and ready to paint the town red. LITERALLY! The colour of the car was red.
You will think that being a smaller town than Auckland, the distance to CBD will be shorter. But the distance hence, time from Dunedin airport to CBD, beats that of Auckland.
The drive felt longer and different partly because it was a new environment and because there were not many residential houses from the motorway. It felt like Aussie to me.
I spent three nights in Dunedin.
The weather wasn’t fantastic on day one although we still managed to see some attractions. It would also be the first time I met Promise. The second day was the best in terms of weather, places visited, and activities. Esther also had more free time then, so it was excellent.
If you ever find yourself in Dunedin, here are some attractions you should see and activities to do while in the city.
Things you will need
You’ll need a car, the zeal and at least one willing friend who shares the same spirit and also takes good photos. Photos are essential my lovelies.
Must See and Do in Dunedin
SIGHTS and LANDMARKS
1. Lanarch castle
145 Camp Road, Larnachs Castle, Dunedin
Larnach castle dates back to 1871. The castle was built by wealthy merchant baron and politician William Larnach for his first wife, Eliza. I’ll pause here to say, somebody’s son go love me like this one day too. He spared no expense. However, so many scandalous and tragic events occurred in the castle, very typical of those times. In 1967, it was purchased and restored by the Barker family. People thought them to be going bunkers when they started their restoration project but look at them now.
Larnach Castle offers the castle experience, dining experience, gardens that have received awards, unique luxury accommodation. You can host your weddings and conferences there too.
We went for a self-guided tour of the castle. While there, we explored the tower, castle gardens, outbuilding, historic stables and the grounds in general.
Historic architecture and eco-adventures await you in Dunedin.
Watch penguins surf into the beach after a successful day's fishing.
2. Moeraki boulders
The Moeraki Boulders are large spherical boulders on Koekohe Beach near Moeraki on New Zealand’s Otago coast. They look like stones for giants but are actually septarian concretions that have been exposed from the Paleocene mudstone and bedrock enclosing them by coastal erosion. They are a must-do when in Dunedin.
You will find them in clusters or isolated within the stretch of the beach. Getting to the boulders will take approximately 1-hour drive (75km) north of Dunedin. The drive is easy and very scenic.
3. Signal hill lookout
Signal hill lookout offers a spectacular panoramic view of Dunedin city. It is located on Signal hill called Te Pahuri o te Rangipohika. Head north towards and follow Signal Hill Road to the end, then you will arrive at the lookout. It is accessible both by car and on foot.
The lookout is home to a monument with two bronze statues dedicated to the New Zealand Centennial of 1940. The two figures represent “history” and “the thread of life”.
4. Dunedin Railway
Established in 1991, the Dunedin railway, formerly the Taieri Gorge Railway, operates and specializes in scenic train trips. So, if you are short on time but would love to explore the beautiful scenery of Dunedin and the surrounding Otago countryside, then hop on the train.
It started as Otago Excursion Trust in 1978, with the first train ride in 1979. By 1987, the services launched new carriages together with Taieri Gorge Limited. And finally, in 1991, Dunedin City Council acquired the line to save it from being closed by New Zealand Railways Corporation due to lack of freight traffic.
So currently, it is a Council-controlled organization with ~28% of the total shares owned by the Trust.
5. The Octagon
What are you doing if you visit Dunedin without going to the Octagon?
According to Wikipedia, it is an eight-sided plaza with a circular one-way carriageway bisected by the city’s main street. It is also the central terminus of two other main thoroughfares. The Octagon is a set of streets in the city centre of Dunedin oriented in such a way as to form an octagon. It is bisected by George street to the northeast and Princes street to the southwest. Another main street is Stuart street.
You’ll find Robert Burn’s statue, the Scottish poet, there. There are also several significant buildings and institutions there, as you’ll see in this post.
6. Robert Burns Statue
The construction behind…aargh. New Zealand and construction are like 5&6. Steady ruining background and landscape. Anyho!!…
Robert Burns was a Scottish poet who made significant contributions to literature and poetry, so much so that you can find his statue at four locations across the globe. Why is there a statue of him in Dunedin? Due to Dunedin’s Scottish roots and the fact that the settlement’s first spiritual leader was the poet’s nephew, the statue felt relevant to the city. You will find other statues of the man in Manhattan’s Central Park, New York; Dundee, Scotland; Thames Victoria Embarkment Gardens, London.
7. Stuart Street
Stuart Street is one of the main streets of Dunedin, New Zealand. As with many of Dunedin’s streets, it is named after the main street in Edinburgh, Scotland. Stuart Street runs orthogonally to George and Princes Streets, meeting both roads at The Octagon, and briefly interrupted by the Octagon itself. This divides Stuart Street into two separate streets, Upper Stuart Street and Lower Stuart Street.
8. First Church of Otago
Address: Moray place
The first church is prominent in Dunedin, loved for its impressive stone structure. It is the city’s first Presbyterian congregation. The building was erected in 1850 by the Free Church of Scotland. It was constructed in haste to cater for the rising population. It has served as a school, council chambers, public lecture hall. Read more history at the NZhistory website.
The church building is located close to the south of the city centre, so it is still in the heart of the city. A short 5-10 minutes’ walk from the Public Art Gallery.
9. Knox Church
Address: 449 George Street
Knox Church is the second Presbyterian church in Dunedin but the largest church of any denomination in the city. Depending on the angle you photograph the spire, you can make it look like a building in a vampire movie if you are good at editing photos. The building has got architectural and townscape significance. The spire is an important landmark signifying entrance or proximity to the city centre.
MUSEUMS and GALLERIES
1. Public Art Gallery
Address: 30 Octagon, Dunedin
Dunedin Public Art Gallery is one of New Zealand’s four major metropolitan art galleries. Established in 1884, the Gallery was New Zealand’s first Art. I went there after exploring the Octagon and significant buildings there. The art gallery is just by the Octagon.
They have collections that include British and European paintings, New Zealand arts and other things you would typically see in an art gallery. You can shop accessories, books, homewares, gifts, cards etc. at the art store, attend art class, watch exhibitions or use their venue for your events. Entry is free!
2. Toitu Otago Settlers Museum
31 Queens Gardens, Dunedin
Settlers’ museum is New Zealand’s oldest history museum. It is located close to the city centre; to the right of the building is the Dunedin Railway Stations and Queens Gardens, a short walk of about 3-5 min.
The regional history museum covers the history of old Otago Province, which is New Zealand from the Waitaki River south. However, its main focus is the city of Dunedin.
Expect to learn about the people whose character, culture, technology, art, fashion, and transport shaped New Zealand’s First Great City, Dunedin.
With the sound and visual effects, you can, for a wee bit, experience what it felt like to live in those times. Dunedin has really really, really, really developed since then.
Entry is FREE, but you may be charged for the special exhibition. The museum is open from 10 am – 4 pm except on Christmas day. Grab a map and get to exploring.
3. Chinese Garden
Address: 39 Queens Gardens, Dunedin Central, Dunedin
Dunedin Chinese Garden, or Lan Yuan, is next to the Toitū Otago Settlers Museum. You will find it on the museum’s self-guided tour map. I decided to be a cheapskate and not go into the garden. If I remember correctly, the entry fee for adults was $15.
“LOL, not today”, I thought.
From the photos, the garden is stunning and appraised as an authentic example of a late Ming/early Ching Dynasty Scholar’s Garden. It celebrates Otago’s Chinese heritage.
4. Otago Museum
419 Great King Street North, North Dunedin, Dunedin
Once again, FREE Entry!! Otago Museum is located in Dunedin North, next to Otago University. To enter the Tūhura (Otago Community Trust Science Centre) and the Perpetual Guardian Planetarium, you’ll need to pay.
I thought it was just another museum so, I wasn’t expecting much from my visit. It turns out that it has one of the largest museum collections in New Zealand. You’ll find cultural, scientific and natural relics, objects and stories of Otago, Aotearoa and from around the globe.
This year will make its 154th anniversary. I just searched to get more info, and my google results showed “you visited 2 years ago”. Enter through Albany Street. From there on, we moved to Forsyth Barr Stadium, not too far away from the museum.
5. University of Otago Clock Tower
Otago Uni Clocktower is a majestic, historically and architecturally significant building. A picturesque location that can take your photographs from meh to waoh! Even without having an eye for photography. It consists of 10 separate blocks. The commonly photographed buildings are the clock tower building (also the Registry building), the St David Street footbridge and the Archway (also School of Mines). Actually, the Archway links the School of Mines to Allen Hall theatre.
The best person to ask will be Esther seeing that she studied at the University of Otago. Other blocks are beautiful too, but the three abovementioned locations I loved the most. We took lots of photos during Esther graduation at these locations. She was also approached and interviewed for the Otago Daily Times.
This complex reminded me of movies like Harry Porter! Certainly justified to feel that way because, as seen on the Otago Uni website, Maxwell Bury designed the building design in the gothic style. It was constructed using bluestone with Oamaru stone facings.
The University itself was founded in 1869, but classes started in 1871. Meanwhile, the first section of the building was completed in 1879.
Just across the Clocktower building is the Water of Leith on the Castle Street, North, of the building. Through the building, you have the Archway Building.
6. Baldwin street
Baldwin street holds the title of the world’s steepest street. It has held this status for more than a decade, but in June 2019, the record was given to Ffordd Pen Llech’s in Harlech, Wales. I will love to visit that place someday.
In April 2020, six months before my first visit to Dunedin, Baldwin street was reinstated as the steepest street of the world again in April 2020 after a formal record review. With a gradient, 34.8%, was higher than that of Ffordd, 28.6%. The wahala was in the measurement procedure. I guess dem been just wan mek another person taste the glory.
I didn’t walk to the top and wasn’t keen on revving the car that hot afternoon. So, we did our observations, photo sessions and viewings from the bottom.
Singing, “This life I kent kill myself.”
NATURE and PARKS
1. Street Art
Enjoy your walk around Ōtepoti central with visual art wall murals showcasing the city’s connection to the world. You’ll find them on the warehouse precinct, where the past is the future. Here is the guide for reference
The street art trail starts on Vogel street.
2. Botanic garden
The botanic garden is massive with native birds, extensive plant collection, city vistas and beautiful walks. As with Dunedin, it is NZ’s first botanic garden. It is also one of only two public gardens that hold the six-star rating Garden of International Significance status.
Look out for the talking cockatoo at the aviary section of the garden
3. Town Belt - Woodhaugh gardens
Woodhaugh garden is in the Woodhaugh suburb, one of Dunedin Town Belt’s suburbs. The town belt is a green belt surrounding the Dunedin central extending around, but at a distance, three sides of the central city. It is said to be one of the world’s oldest green belts.
Our inner child had the best time here as we rode the swings and the seesaw at the playground. The garden is close to my friend’s former neighbourhood.
4. Centre City Mall
Address: Dunedin Central
Second largest but oldest existing shopping complex in Dunedin. It opened in the late 1970s.
Shop till you drop! It has about 20 stores!
Link up with Meridian Mall’s largest mall via the Albion Place walkway.
5. Forsyth Barr Stadium
Address: 130 Anzac Avenue, Dunedin
I visited Forsyth Barr Stadium, NZ’s largest and most versatile indoor event arena, in North Dunedin in the spirit of exploration. The stadium opened in 2011 as NZ’s Highlanders’ home stadium in super rugby. Many sports events, music tours and concerts have been held there.
It’s not so accessible to the public. You’ll need a pass or be a member to enter most areas, so I settled with the University plaza area. It was a long day of walking so, seating for a moment felt good.
6. Port Chalmers lookout
Address: 7 Aurora Terrace, Dunedin
Port Chalmers lookout, also known as Flagstaff lookout or observation point, offers panoramic views of Port Chalmers. At the location, you will find Hotere Sculpture Garden and the 120 kg marine-grade Time ball, a Victorian Greenwich mean time signal. You will also see the historic Iona Church and Port Otago from the lookout.
Port Chalmers is historically a harbour village, home to Port Otago, the primary export port for the lower South Island of New Zealand. It is the main port of Otepoti. It is located in Otago Harbour, the fourth side of Dunedin central.
Port Otago is a full-service port offering comprehensive shipping and cargo services. Simply put Port Chalmers lookout in your navigation system, and it will take you there.
I revisited Dunedin last month, December 2021, for Esther’s graduation. Stayed in for most of the weekend.
