It was the eve of Thursday in the 2nd week of July. I’d just returned from a 2-hour tenpin bowling session with the team and was listening to feedback about my blog when the thought came to mind “You should do something this weekend. How about a road trip?” A road trip sounded like a good idea but, “to where?”. Then, I recalled my discussion with a friend about Hawke’s Bay and boom!!! the decision was made. “We shall visit Napier!” Sassy declared.
I booked myself into a backpacker (a bad idea!) that night and was ready for the road.
The next day was a Friday, and I’d finished early so, I hit the road straight from work and off to Napier!!. As I took the Summerhill Dr ramp towards SH 57, I felt the spirit of adventure rise in me. This would be my first spontaneous road trip in a long while; consequently, I was excited about this solo road trip.
Side note
My colleagues asked about my plans for the weekend, and I told them, Napier. Then, they asked if I’d been there before; I said, “yes but, the weather was bad and my pictures blurry”. So they teased, “you’re going to take clearer ones”. You bet I said yes, lol – see the end of this post.
Indeed, I visited Hawke’s Bay in April 2019 during our Auckland-Wellington and back road trip with Uni friends. We’d stayed the night in an Airbnb in Hastings. The hosts were kind enough to share their homebrew with us while one of my uni friends serenaded us with his piano skills. Oh, what a lovely night it was!! Although the day wasn’t quite like we’d expected but, we made the most out of it.
I digress.
After 2.5 hours of impersonating Lewis Hamilton, I finally arrived at the backpackers just minutes after the reception closed – I’d informed them of my late arrival anyway. Checking into that accommodation made me feel like Liam Neeson during his quest to find his daughter’s kidnappers. Speaking of kidnappers, you should check out Cape kidnappers – 5 hr return hike, expert-track.
the planning
Recall that I left from work, so I still had my lunch, which became my dinner. Savings or suffering?!! That’s left for you to decide. The 2008 Incredible HULK movie was on Live TV in what would be a shared/dining area. I sat on one of the dining chairs and began multi-tasking – planning my next day’s movement while also watching the movie with the others. Then off to my bed in the six-bedroom room. We were only two females, which made it easier.
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Before my trip, I’d contacted a friend, Andrew, who I knew lived in Hawke’s Bay. Andrew was instrumental in my having a fun day. With his knowledge of the area and my lil research, my weekend was made. He suggested more activities and places for my itinerary of things to see and do. Boy, did these make a whole lotta difference to my experience!! I’d never have thought about them. It was just right since two places I wanted to see were closed, and one other wasn’t what I thought it would be.
Keep reading to see the additions. I had a fun-packed weekend thanks to Andrew, you’re the bestest.
THE PLAN
I successfully divided my activities into driving and walking activities. By this time, Andrew hasn’t reached out yet. The walking activities were within 15-min walking distance (MTG & Napier library, Marine parade, Gardens, Art Deco walk, Clive square, Sea wall, Napier prison). Any time above that was put under driving activities; so, Bluff hill, Te Mata peaks, Otatara pā.
Putting these two trips to Napier together, I have come up with top things to see and do with <48 hours to spare in Napier… and some other parts of Hawke’s Bay. It may seem like a lot; you’ll probably be wondering where you’ll get all that money. Fear not!! Everything activity here is free. Unless you plan to get souvenirs.
Hawke’s Bay is a region on the east coast of New Zealand’s North Island. It boasts of outstanding architecture, great food and a lot of wineries.
Napier is one of the cities in Hawke’s Bay and the Art Deco capital of New Zealand; some even say the world. The Art Deco buildings are nationally protected and are a tourist attraction in New Zealand. Napier is also one place you’ll find a countdown opposite another countdown as such is dubbed “the Countdown capital of NZ”. There’s now a Pak’n Sav in very close proximity.
DAY 1
The next morning, I was up early for my tour. First, the walking activities, then return to pick the car and go on driving activities but, Andrew texted, and I didn’t have to drive for that day. Moreover, the prediction was that it’ll rain, but it didn’t. – Man proposes, God disposes.
I started at the Napier Library, just across a section of the Marine Parade. Right before getting there, I saw this statue (RHS) in honour of the first meeting of the New Zealand Women’s Institute. Girl Power!!
The Napier Library is beside the MTG Hawke’s Bay. Nothing really historical about the building but worth having a look at. I went there one hour ahead of opening time, so I didn’t get in. I later found out it’ll be staying closed for a while. See why soon. Moved onto MTG Hawke’s Bay.
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MTG Hawke’s Bay
MTG is a museum, theatre and art gallery all in one. Located in the heart of Napier’s CBD, it is the cultural heart of Hawke’s Bay. During my first visit to Napier, I went to the museum and art gallery.
Sadly, during this second visit, I met with a temporarily closed sign at the entrance. The closure is due to the discovery of a potentially explosive substance in MTC collections (see Stuff). It affects both Library and MTG. Will keep this updated.
Address: 1 Tennyson Street, Napier South
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I had one hour to explore the CBD before leaving for my driving activities. When I was done looking for the perfect angles to capture the perfect picture, I moved on to explore the sculptures and gardens of the Marine Parade, beginning at the arches.
Marine Parade
Marine Parade is home to gardens, art installations and many monuments. Quite famous is the bronze mermaid statue, Pania of the Reef. The statue is based on Maori mythology. The Pania, a beautiful mermaid, fell in love and married Karitoki, the son of a Maori chief. Karitoki tried to keep her on earth by giving her a morsel of cooked food but, this would have put her life in jeopardy, obviously!!!
But, what do I know about love? More of the story here.
Other statues and gardens worthy of note include Sunken Gardens, Spirit of Napier, New Napier Arch, part of the Colonnades Memorial erected in 1937 to commemorate the 1931 Hawke’s Bay earthquake, Tom Parker Fountain, Napier Reef Garden, and the Marine Parade Outfall and Viewing Platform.
Walk or longboard along Napier’s seafront promenade to see all of these.
Address: Marine Parade, Napier
Art Deco Architecture
As I earlier mentioned, art deco in Napier are like 5 and 6. Art deco architecture has been preserved since the 1930s. After the earthquake that hit Hawke’s Bay in 1931, they had to rebuild. Art Deco architecture was the predominant building style because it was modern and fashionable at the time.
Begin your self-guided tour at Tennyson Street. You can get a self-guided brochure from the Art Deco Trust (7 Tennyson Street) at $10; they also offer guided walks, private and vintage car tour services. Each year, Napier holds an Art Deco Festival with so much to see. Sadly, the event was entirely cancelled for 2021 – covid times. The next event will be in February 2022.
I’ll let the photos do the rest of the talking.
Clive Square and Memorial Square
Clive square is an excellent place to relax, especially on a cool sunny day. It is home to the Centennial Carillon, ANZAC War Memorial/Cenotaph, and unusual trees and plants like bottle palms. Find a nice spot and listen to the selection of melodies from the carillon. I didn’t know what that meant until I needed to know.
The cenotaph is a memorial for their forebears who fought in WW1, and where this monument stand is called “Memorial Square”. You’ll also find Women’s rest (LHS in photo), also erected in commemoration of citizens of Napier who fell in the war.
To the east of Clive Square, just before Memorial Square, is Napier Urban Farmer’s Market which opens every Saturday morning, 9.30 am – 12.30 pm. I met up with my friend at Clive Square, and we headed to Bluff hill.
Address: Clive Square, Napier South.
Bluff Hill Lookout
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Spectacular views of Hawke’s Bay and the busy port of Napier at this historical landmark. It’s another fantastic spot for a picnic in the sun or a shady spot on a good-weather day. The only change I noticed was about the fence; it was higher than the last time. Just for fun, you can roll down the meadow (You do that at your own risk. Be careful).
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Ahuriri – the Old fishing Village
Ahuriri is only five minutes away from Napier CBD. It has a cool beachfront and long boardwalks leading up to Spriggs Park to your right and Perfume point, where we went to your left. I had no intentions of going to the beach because it is winter – too cold to chill. Freedom camping is allowed at Perfume point for no more than 2 nights stay. You must park within the designated spaces.
There are a lot of cafes and eateries in this area. One of the interesting and my fav ones is COOL CATS ice cream and HOT CHICK chicken because of the name. They are located side-by-side; in a classic pun intended situation. Don’t ask me about the food ‘cos I didn’t go in.
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Address: 46 Nelson Quay, Ahuriri
The Heritage preservation National Tobacco Company building is also located in Ahuriri. Best pubs and clubs are said to be just by the Wharf on West Quay, Ahuriri. You’ll find Speight’s Ale House, Paddy’s Irish Pub (Carlsberg), Shed2.
As we drove towards CBD to see the murals, I noticed many subtle puns in the names of some of the pubs on West Quay, like Thirsty whale, Gintrap, and Caution. Genious!!
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Sea Wall Mural
Earlier on, I agreed to try skating on a longboard. Note that I have zero experience with this thing. After we found parking near the skate park, I tried longboarding along the Marine parade to go see the Sea Wall Murals by the National aquarium. It was a struggle to find my balance and trust my legs to be one with the board. Well, suffice to say I fell!! Thankfully I landed on my butt cheeks and not the coccyx. All that squats and donkey kicks came in handy!! *cheeky*.
Did I give up? No!!! I made it to the Sea Wall Mural, half skating, half walking.
I love street arts if done correctly. There are exactly 50 beautifully made murals in Napier. This was a street art project in 2016-17 by PangeaSeed Foundation. These iconic features give the city more character. Detailed descriptions of each mural are here, courtesy of the Napier city council.
Plastic pollution at Browning street say what!! Octopus!! Sneaky Snaky Pania of the Reef
After I finished disgracing my village people by falling ass flat, I let my friend become my tour guide. A decision I’m glad I made that adding to deciding not to drive. Mad fun mehn.
We drove to Onekawa to see vintage and classic cars, it wasn’t open then, we went to Taradale to view the Tea Museum, which was closed too.
So, we drove out of Napier to explore other parts of Hawke’s Bay but had a stop-over at Silky Oak Chocolate (1131 Links Rd, Napier). It has a museum, café, pantry shop, and function area. It’s a good place for sweet tooth folks. From there, we headed for another sweet spot; however, not from cocoa, this one was from bees.
Honey tasting
Do you know you can get self-guided, drop-in tours plus honey tasting for free?! YES!!! Arataki Honey Visitor Centre offers all this.
For instance, you will learn about the social structure of bees, get your beeswax candle hand-made by yourself, spot Queen Bees in their respective hives, and the sweetest of them all – FREE honey tasting of the 100% pure Arataki New Zealand Honey. AMAZING!! Not to sway your taste buds but, my favourite honey was the Pohutukawa honey. I know! Mind-blowing!!
It is located in Havelock North on their original site and very close to Te Mata Peaks.
Address: 66 Arataki Road, Havelock North (Open 9 am – 5 pm daily)
My research self wouldn’t let this go so I took a photo of the different honey, honey!!! (in Beyonce’s voice). How many of these have you tried?
Te Mata Peaks
The weather was perfect this time, with no rain and wind, just cold and sunny. I was also less afraid of heights, so I could explore the summit much better than I did the last time. Te Mata peak is 399 m above sea levels offering spectacular views of Hawke’s Bay.
The popular spot at the lookout is the one with a backdrop of jagged hills, “fluffy mountains’ as my friend called it. There are trails and tracks for hikers and mountain bikers.
Address: Te Mata Peak Road, Tuki Tuki
By the time we finished absorbing the freshness and beauty of mother nature, it was past three pm and we needed food for the remaining activity of the day. I had craved dumplings for a while then so, it was a mission “find me a good dumpling spot”.
Wine tasting
We did a quick drive through the wineries and stopped at Askerne Estate Winery for free wine tasting. Although our attendant knew his wines, his comportment wasn’t enthusiastic. I felt like he was in a hurry to get rid of us, but his countenance changed after I purchased a bottle of wine. I bought the 2020 Askerne Gewürztraminer Wine. Anyway, if you find yourself in the area, stop over for free wine. During summertime, you could have your picnics there; every picnic necessity is available.
Dumplings and Laser tag
We went to Havelock North CBD from there but, all the restaurants my friend knew that sold good dumplings were closed. So, we headed to Hastings, which was across town, less than 10 minutes drive, befriended google, and that’s how we found a place to eat dumplings.
Belly full, cravings satisfied. We took off to meet up with the Laser tag crew. Another first for me!!! It was a good kind of madness!!! E mek sense die!!! I no win sha but, I no carry last. My friend had to leave early so, I got dropped off by my friend’s friend.
DAY 2
The following day, I got up early, prepped, bags packed, drone charged, ready to hit the road. I had the free home-baked bread at the hostel with peanut butter and jam for breakfast.
The plan was to leave for home early so, not much was scheduled for this day besides visiting Napier Prison and the Māori Reserve. The Marine Parade was already packed with cars, so I had to leave mine where it’d been packed since I arrived in Napier. In other words, I walked to the Prison.
Napier Prison
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The Napier Prison is New Zealand’s oldest penal facility, having opened in 1862. Today, the museum offering self-guided audio tours and an Escape Room experience – to extend your experience and put your wits to the test.
Listen to stories of victims, villains, guards, and heroes while you wander through the cells. You’ll also see the original path of the 1931 earthquake. I can also say without fear of prejudice, don’t forget to take your MUG SHOT.
Address: 55 Coote Road, Bluff Hill
Otatara Pā Historic Reserve
It was finally time to return to base. However, I made a quick stop at one of the oldest and largest Māori pā sites. It is an easy 45-min walk (one-way) around the reserve otherwise, walk directly to the landmark to overview what used to be a Maori settlement.
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Parks and Gardens
Lastly, there are many options for parks and gardens. I haven’t been to most of them besides those I have aforementioned in this post. Gardens you should check out are Centennial Garden, Botanical Gardens, Kennedy Park Rose Garden, Taradale Community Garden, Ahuriri Estuary Walk.
On my way home, I spotted a rainbow: the perfect colourful arch is a reminder of our covenant with God that he will not bring the world to an end with the flood.
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By evening, I was back to base. Had to give my car a good wash and drink; she’s been a good machine to me. As the daylight faded, I was scrolled back through my pictures on my phone. I also found photos from my first trip to Hawke’s Bay.
I can’t tell if I was a better photographer then compared to now. Can you spot the difference?
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What an eventful weekend it has been!! Hawke’s Bay is pure paradise indeed.